CHAP. 6. (5.)—OF ITALY.
Next comes Italy, and we begin with the Ligures[1], after
whom we have Etruria, Umbria, Latium, where the mouths of
the Tiber are situate, and Rome, the Capital of the world,
sixteen miles distant from the sea. We then come to the
coasts of the Volsci and of Campania, and the districts of
Picenum, of Lucania, and of Bruttium, where Italy extends
the farthest in a southerly direction, and projects into the
[two] seas with the chain of the Alps[2], which there forms
pretty nearly the shape of a crescent. Leaving Bruttium
we come to the coast of [Magna] Græcia, then the Salentini,
the Pediculi, the Apuli, the Peligni, the Frentani, the Marrucini,
the Vestini, the Sabini, the Picentes, the Galli, the
Umbri, the Tusci, the Veneti, the Carni, the Iapydes, the
Histri, and the Liburni.
I am by no means unaware that I might be justly accused
of ingratitude and indolence, were I to describe thus briefly
and in so cursory a manner the land which is at once the
foster-child[3] and the parent of all lands; chosen by the
providence of the Gods to render even heaven itself more glorious[4],
to unite the scattered empires of the earth, to bestow a
polish upon men's manners, to unite the discordant and uncouth
dialects of so many different nations by the powerful
ties of one common language, to confer the enjoyments of
discourse and of civilization upon mankind, to become, in
short, the mother-country of all nations of the Earth.
But how shall I commence this undertaking? So vast is
the number of celebrated places (what man living could
enumerate them all?), and so great the renown attached
to each individual nation and subject, that I feel myself quite
at a loss. The city of Rome alone, which forms a portion
of it, a face well worthy of shoulders so beauteous, how
large a work would it require for an appropriate description!
And then too the coast of Campania, taken singly by itself!
so blest with natural beauties and opulence, that it is evident
that when nature formed it she took a delight in accumulating
all her blessings in a single spot—how am I to do justice to
it? And then the climate, with its eternal freshness and so
replete with health and vitality, the sereneness of the weather
so enchanting, the fields so fertile, the hill sides so sunny,
the thickets so free from every danger, the groves so cool and
shady, the forests with a vegetation so varying and so luxuriant, the
breezes descending from so many a mountain, the
fruitfulness of its grain, its vines, and its olives so transcendent;
its flocks with fleeces so noble, its bulls with necks so
sinewy, its lakes recurring in never-ending succession, its
numerous rivers and springs which refresh it with their waters
on every side, its seas so many in number, its havens and the
bosom of its lands opening everywhere to the commerce of
all the world, and as it were eagerly stretching forth into
the very midst of the waves, for the purpose of aiding as it
were the endeavours of mortals!
For the present I forbear to speak of its genius, its manners, its
men, and the nations whom it has conquered by
eloquence and force of arms. The very Greeks themselves,
a race fond in the extreme of expatiating on their own praises,
have amply given judgment in its favour, when they named
but a small part of it 'Magna Græcia[5].' But we must be
content to do on this occasion as we have done in our description of
the heavens; we must only touch upon some of
these points, and take notice of but a few of its stars. I
only beg my readers to bear in mind that I am thus hasten-
ing on for the purpose of giving a general description of
everything that is known to exist throughout the whole earth.
I may premise by observing that this land very much resembles in shape an oak leaf, being much longer than it is
broad; towards the top it inclines to the left[6], while it terminates in the form of an Amazonian buckler[7], in which the spot
at the central projection is the place called Cocinthos, while it
sends forth two horns at the end of its crescent-shaped bays,
Leucopetra on the right and Lacinium on the left. It extends in
length 1020 miles, if we measure from the foot of
the Alps at Prætoria Augusta, through the city of Rome and
Capua to the town of Rhegium, which is situate on the
shoulder of the Peninsula, just at the bend of the neck as it
were. The distance would be much greater if measured to
Lacinium, but in that case the line, being drawn obliquely,
would incline too much to one side. Its breadth is variable;
being 410 miles between the two seas, the Lower and the
Upper[8], and the rivers Varus and Arsia[9]: at about the middle,
and in the vicinity of the city of Rome, from the spot where
the river Aternus[10] flows into the Adriatic sea, to the mouth
of the Tiber, the distance is 136 miles, and a little less from
Castrum-novum on the Adriatic sea to Alsium[11] on the Tuscan;
but in no place does it exceed 200 miles in breadth.
The circuit of the whole, from the Varus to the Arsia, is 3059
miles[12].
As to its distance from the countries that surround it-
Istria and Liburnia are, in some places[13], 100 miles from it,
and Epirus and Illyricum 50; Africa is less than 200, as we
are informed by M. Varro; Sardinia[14] is 120, Sicily 1 1/2, Corsica
less than 80, and Issa[15] 50. It extends into the two seas
towards the southern parts of the heavens, or, to speak with
more minute exactness, between the sixth[16] hour and the first
hour of the winter solstice.
We will now describe its extent and its different cities;
in doing which, it is necessary to premise, that we shall follow the
arrangement of the late Emperor Augustus, and
adopt the division which he made of the whole of Italy into
eleven districts; taking them, however, according to their
order on the sea-line, as in so hurried a detail it would not be
possible otherwise to describe each city in juxtaposition with
the others in its vicinity. And for the same reason, in describing
the interior, I shall follow the alphabetical order
which has been adopted by that Emperor, pointing out the
colonies of which he has made mention in his enumeration.
Nor is it a very easy task to trace their situation and origin;
for, not to speak of others, the Ingaunian Ligurians have had
lands granted to them as many as thirty different times.
1. The modern names of these localities will form the subject of consideration when we proceed, in c. 7, to a more minute description of
Italy.
2. This passage is somewhat confused, and may possibly be in a corrupt
state. He here speaks of the Apennine Alps. By the "lunata juga"
he means the two promontories or capes, which extend east and west
respectively.
3. This seems to be the meaning of "alumna," and not "nurse" or
"foster-mother," as Ajasson's translation has it. Pliny probably
implies by this antithesis that Rome has been "twice blessed," in
receiving
the bounties of all nations of the world, and in being able to bestow a
commensurate return. Compared with this idea, "at once the nurse and
mother of the world" would be tame indeed!
4. By adding its deified emperors to the number of its divinities. After
what Pliny has said in his Second Book, this looks very much like pure
adulation.
5. Or "Great Greece." This is a poor and frivolous argument used by
Pliny in support of his laudations of Italy, seeing that in all
probability it was not the people of Greece who gave this name to
certain cities
founded by Greek colonists on the Tarentine Gulf, in the south of Italy;
but either the Italian tribes, who in their simplicity admired their
splendour and magnificence, or else the colonists themselves, who, in
using
the name, showed that they clung with fondness to the remembrance of
their mother-country; while at the same time the epithet betrayed some
vanity and ostentation in wishing thus to show their superiority to the
people of their mother-country.
6. The comparison of its shape to an oak leaf seems rather fanciful;
more common-place observers have compared it to a boot: by the top
(cacumen) he seems to mean the southern part of Calabria about
Brundisium and Tarentum; which, to a person facing the south, would
incline to the coast of Epirus on the left hand.
7. The 'Parma' or shield here alluded to, would be one shaped like a
crescent, with the exception that the inner or concave side would be
formed of two crescents, the extremities of which join at the central
projection. He says that Cocinthos (now Capo di Stilo) would in such
case form the central projection, while Lacinium (now Capo delle Colonne)
would form the horn at the extreme right, and Leucopetra (now Capo
dell' Armi) the horn on the extreme left.
8. The Tuscan or Etrurian sea, and the Adriatic.
9. The Varus, as already mentioned, was in Gallia Narbonensis, while the
Arsia, now the Arsa, is a small river of Istria, which became the boundary
between Italy and Illyricum, when Istria was annexed by order of Augustus to the former country. It flows into the Flanaticus Sinus, now
Golfo di Quarnero, on the eastern coast of Istria, beyond the town of
Castel Nuovo, formerly Nesactium.
10. Now the Pescara.
11. Now Palo, a city on the coast of Etruria, eighteen miles from Portus
Augusti, at the mouth of the Tiber.
12. This distance is overstated: the circuit is in reality about
2500 miles.
13. For instance, from Pola to Ravenna, and from Iadera to Ancona.
14. Sardinia is in no part nearer to Italy than 140 miles.
15. Issa, now Lissa, is an island of the Adriatic, off the coast of
Liburnia; it is not less than eighty miles distant from the nearest
part of the coast of Italy.
16. That is to say, the south, which was so called by the Romans: the
meaning being that Italy extends in a south-easterly direction.